Free gravel to asphalt quotes, anywhere in central and south Mississippi.
Pave over the ruts, mud, and dust. Gravel driveways, lots, and lanes converted to asphalt.
Asphalt holds its shape under tires and in heavy rain, so you stop regrading and stop hauling in more stone.
Sound, compacted gravel can become part of the base after grading, which means less new material to bring in.
No dust coating the cars in summer and no mud tracked into the garage, the house, or the building.
Gravel can't hold markings. A paved lot can be striped with stalls, ADA spaces, and fire lanes by our own crews.
| typical thickness | Driveways: 3 inches laid, 2.5 inches compacted. Lots and lanes: spec'd per job |
|---|---|
| base material | Existing gravel where sound, plus compacted crushed limestone |
| cure time | Light vehicles in about 24 hours, heavy trucks 48 to 72 hours |
If you searched for a gravel driveway, you are probably weighing cost against upkeep. Gravel is cheaper on day one. The bills come after: stone to replace what washes out, regrading when the ruts get deep, and the dust and mud that come with it.
Converting to asphalt makes the most sense when:
If you are pricing a new gravel driveway from bare ground, get a number for a new asphalt driveway next to it before you decide.
Years of gravel pressed into the ground by tires can be a real head start. After grading, we compact it and check it for soft spots. Where it is solid, clean, and well packed, it stays and becomes part of the base under the asphalt.
Not all gravel qualifies. Stone that has sunk into the clay, mixed with mud, or thinned out in the wheel paths won't support pavement. Those areas get dug out and rebuilt with compacted crushed limestone.
Gravel hides weak ground, because you can keep refilling the ruts. Asphalt doesn't give you that option, so finding and fixing those spots before paving is the most important part of the job.
A gravel surface lets some rain soak through. Asphalt sheds nearly all of it, and that water has to go somewhere. Pave gravel without regrading and you can end up with water running toward the garage, pooling against a building, or cutting a channel along the edge of the pavement.
We look at this at the site visit: where water goes now, where it should go, and how the finished surface needs to slope to get it there. On larger lots there is more water to move, so the grading plan matters even more. Getting this right is a big part of why a converted driveway or lot holds up.
Churches, small businesses, equipment yards, and HOAs often start with gravel lots and lanes and outgrow them. Loose stone and potholes are a trip and liability problem where the public walks, and a gravel lot can't be marked for ADA parking or fire lanes.
Commercial conversions follow the same steps as a driveway, with the pavement sized to the traffic it will carry. A lot that sees delivery trucks, buses, or loaded equipment needs a heavier section than one that only sees cars, and that is spec'd per job. For lots, see our parking lot paving page; for long lanes, see private road paving.
Once the asphalt is down, our own crews handle the parking lot striping: stalls, ADA spaces and markings, fire lanes, arrows, and crosswalks.
The biggest swing in price is how much of your existing gravel can stay. These are the factors that set the number:
Someone comes out to check the grade, soil, and existing gravel, and then we send a free, written, itemized quote with no hidden fees and no obligation.
The regrading and stone deliveries stop. In their place is a short list. Give the new asphalt 6 to 12 months to cure, then sealcoat it and reseal every 1 to 2 years. Fill cracks while they are small, and keep soil backed up against the pavement edges so they stay supported.
While the asphalt is curing, it stays softer than old pavement, especially on hot afternoons. Avoid turning wheels in place, and keep trailer jacks and kickstands off it. With that care, an asphalt driveway or lot can last 20 to 30 years.
Real job photos from PavePro crews. No stock photos.
Gravel to Asphalt
PavePro crew paving over a gravel area
Road & Municipal Paving
Crew paving a road edge with the paver and dump truck
Road & Municipal Paving
Roller finishing a new road lane with the crew ahead
Road & Municipal Paving
Paver and dump truck paving a street lane beside a pavilion
Road & Municipal Paving
Long new rural road between pine stands
Road & Municipal Paving
Crew paving a curving apartment street
Not over loose gravel as it sits. We grade and compact it first, keep what is solid and in good shape as part of the base, and rebuild thin or muddy areas with crushed limestone.
Gravel costs less to put down. It also needs regrading and new stone again and again, while asphalt that is sealcoated and crack-filled can last 20 to 30 years.
It can if the grading is wrong, because gravel soaks up some rain and asphalt sheds nearly all of it. We grade the surface so runoff goes where it should, away from the house or building.
No. We assess what is there and bring in crushed limestone where the base needs it, and that is part of the quote.
Yes. Our own crews grade, build the base, pave, and stripe the lot, including ADA spaces and fire lanes.
Yes. Long driveways and private lanes are converted the same way, with the base and asphalt matched to what drives on them.
Cars can usually drive on it after about 24 hours. Keep heavy trucks off for 48 to 72 hours.
Tell us about the job and we'll send a written, itemized quote. No pressure, no runaround.